CLOSER to the park entrance itself, the new Tierra Patagonia is one of the most architecturally inspiring and beautifully positioned resorts I have seen. The long, slender structure hugs the plain like a huge wing of timber and soaring glass. Beyond it, Lake Sarmiento shimmers in the distance with the looming Torres del Paine behind.

Restaurant at The Singular Patagonia hotel, near Puerto Natales.
The lodge was designed so that all the windows look out onto an ever-changing vista; the light, cloud cover and hues of the land appear different at every moment. Through a great expanse of glass, the sun bathes the interior in natural light. At night a large fire roars in a fireplace at the center of the open public area. Sheepskin rugs and rugged armchairs give the place a slightly gaucho feel, and a huge map with drawings of fjords and animals provides a reference guide to the next day’s activities.

One of the excursions we decided on was not negotiable: the climb to the base of Torres del Paine. We left our son with one of the friendly staff members (though seeing a woman practically sprint up the same trail with her own 2-year-old strapped to her front would later make me feel like a lightweight). Then we set out with Felipe, our local guide, along with two handsome brothers from Texas.

GETTING TO THE END OF THE WORLD
PLANNING YOUR TRIP . WHERE TO STAY
Rates for the hotels seem high at first, but once broken down by room, food, excursions and transfers, they aren’t unreasonable, especially considering the experience. Just outside Puerto Natales, the Singular Patagonia hotel is an hour and a half from Torres del Paine National Park, but affords access to nearby fjords and glaciers, as well as to the Mylodon Cave (the home of the prehistoric mammal that inspired Bruce Chatwin’s trip here). Rates for the full-board option (there are half-board and bed-and-breakfast options too) start at $610 a person and include all meals at the excellent restaurant, expeditions and soft and alcoholic drinks (http://en.bop.travel/hotels-and-cruises/the-singular-patagonia ; 56-61-722-030).